Groom’s Guide: Formalwear Glossary
Groom’s Guide: Formalwear GlossaryCourtesy of Jim's Formalwear
Turning yourself into a gallant groom is easier than you think. Just follow these easy formal-dressing rules for a perfect polished look. To prevent any wedding day bloopers, the groom and groomsman should try their tuxedos on for final fittings 9including studs and cuff links) before leaving the formalwear rental shop.
Suits:
Cutaway and Stroller
For formal daytime weddings (11 am to 4 pm), the groom wears the cutaway/morning coat, which tapers from waist button to a long, wide back tail. Accessories include a wing-collar shirt with an ascot and a coordinating vest. Attendants wear the stroller/walking coat, which is slightly longer than a suit jacket, and is worn with a spread-collar shirt and a four-in-hand tie. Both jackets, in either black or grey, are worn with matching striped or nailhead trousers.
Dinner Jacket
A white or ivory jacket with black formal trousers is an ideal option between Easter and Labor Day or year round in warmer climates for formal and semiformal evening weddings.
Tuxedo
A single- or double-breasted jacket with matching trousers for formal or semiformal evening weddings. Tuxedos come in a variety of fabrics. Accessories include a dress shirt with cuff links and studs, and a bow tie with a vest or cummerbund.
White Tie
This is the classic choice for the ultra formal evening wedding. The tailcoat jacket is short in front with two long back tails. A white pique (a waffle-textured fabric in cotton or cotton blend) front wing-collar shirt, tie, and a vest are also worn. Tailcoats can be worn for formal daytime or evening weddings in grey, navy, or burgundy with matching ties and cummberbunds.
Lapels:
Suit jackets come with three basic lapel styles. Some are more flattering to certain body types. But for the most part, choosing one that’s right for you is merely a matter of taste.
Notch
A triangular indentation is cut where the lapel joins the collar.
Peak
A broad V-shaped lapel that points up and out just below the collar line.
Shawl
A smooth, rounded lapel.
Shirts:
The primary difference between shirt styles is in the collar. Each collar style usually comes in many different colors, with or without ruffles, pleats, stripes, or other decorations.
Mandarin Collar
A collar that stands u around the neck and above the buttons; this contemporary style is not worn with a tie… a decorative button cover is used.
Laydown (spread) Collar
Similar to a man’s standard button-front shirt, it folds over around the neck with a wide division between points in front.
Wing Collar
Similar to a band collar but with two turned-down points in front that give the appearance of spread collar.
Accessories:
Your wedding may be the only day in your life that you have more accessories to coordinate than your wife does. Think how the whole picture will look if you depart from the traditional black for more than one or two of your accessories.
Ascot
A wide necktie (almost like a scarf) that is looped over and held in place beneath the chin with a tie tack or stickpin. Worn with a wing-collar shirt and the daytime wedding cutaway jacket.
Bow Tie
A short tie shaped like a bow that can be worn with a wing or spread collar. A shirt’s wing collar can be tucked behind the bow tie. Most bowties adjust to fit all neck sizes and are available in a variety of widths, collars, and patterns to match the vest or cummerbund.
Cuff Links
Decorative jewelry used to close French Cuffs.
Cummerbund
A silk or satin sash as an alternative to a vest worn at the waist and covering the trousers waistband. A cummerbund should be worn with the pleats facing up.
Euro-Tie
A long, knotted square-bottom necktie worn with a wing or spread-collar shirt.
Pocket Square
A small pocket-handkerchief tucked into thte left breast pocket worn by groomsmen instead of a boutonniere.
Four-in-Hand Tie
A standard knotted necktie worn with a spread collar. This is the traditional name for the type of necktie most men wear to work.
Studs
Jewelry similar to cuff links that are used to close the front of a formal tuxedo shirt, which traditionally does not have buttons down the front. Studs usually come in sets of three or four.
Suspenders
Two supporting bands worn over the shoulders to support the trousers. They can coordinate, in color or patter, with a cummberbund.
Vest
Worn in place of a cummberbund to cover the trouser waistband with bottom vest button left unbuttoned. It’s often worn with a coordinating bow tie. Some are adjustable at the neck and waist with an open back, while others have a fully covered back. If you think you might remove your jacket during the reception, opt for the full-back vest.
