Groom’s Guide: Dressed Your Best - Tuxedo Fitting
Groom’s Guide: Dressed Your BestCourtesy of Jim's Formalwear
Many women find that all men look better in a tuxedo. But contrary to appearances, not all tuxedos are alike. Subtle differences in jackets, collars, and pants styles can be flattering or fatal, depending on your body type. Pick the tuxedo that’s best for your body type. That picture of you and your bride is going to be prominently featured in your living room for a long time. There’s no reason not to look your best.
Short, Slender:
Grooms should look for single-breasted jackets with long lines, a low-button stance (it elongates the body), and wide peak lapels. Other stylish options include wearing a double-breasted tuxedo jacket or a subtly patterned vest and tie. Selection of the right pant style is key, too. Reverse double-pleated trousers are a good choice for grooms with short, slender frames. And the perfect pant leg should always break slightly on top of the shoe and angle a bit downward in back.
Short, Stocky:
Grooms with athletic or muscular body types look best in tuxedo jackets with slim shawl collars. The top button should fall at the small of the waist to give the torso a leaner look. Also, choose jackets with a natural shoulder line and avoid the more broad European styles. When it comes to pants, reverse double-pleated trousers with pleats extending toward the pockets tend to offer the best comfort and style. Pants should extend as low as possible on the foot, angled slightly in the back to elongate the leg. Be sure to avoid too much of a bread on the foot, otherwise the pant leg will look sloppy.
Tall, Husky:
Grooms with broad shoulders and muscular frames look best in shawl-collar tuxedos. Jacket length is especially important. To determine a good fit, Bernie Toll, a New York City formalwear expert, recommends that the groom place his arms at his sides and relax his hands and fingers. “His fingertips should touch the bottom of the hacker,’ says Toll, “and his shirt cuffs should extend at least half an inch beyond the jacket sleeve.” The construction of the jacket may need to be a bit loose to provide ease of movement. Also, grooms with thick necks and wide faces should avoid narrow ties and wing-tip collars that look constrictive. Instead, opt for spread collars and fuller bow ties. And the pant leg should have slightly wider silhouette to accommodate muscular thighs.
Tall, Slim:
Grooms look good in just about every tuxedo style. An especially good choice is a double-breasted tuxedo with slightly broad shoulders and a suppressed waist. Jacket buttons closed up high on the waistline look especially good, and a high shoulder line is better than a natural one. Garments should be full, while still following the lines of the body, and trousers should also have a higher rise with more of a break in the pant. This body type can easily wear vests and ties in colors and patterns.
